Blog of the Building of a Stanley Style Charabanc

Most of the following is copied more or less directly from a thread in The Unofficial Mamod and Other Steam Forum'
It mainly consists of my own posts in that thread, with quotations from other posters where relevant.

Project started 14 April 2010 and completed 25 April 2011

I bought this box of Mamod car bits on ebay some time ago with the intention of restoring it:


This photo was taken in March 2008 and it's been sitting in a box since then awaiting inspiration. Apart from the obvious, the main problem is the boiler which is badly damaged. It may be fixable but it would require a new end cap and a lot of work. A replacement would be much easier.

In the mean time I've been thinking (yes, I know - dangerous :-)); if I restore it fully, it will entail a lot of work and expense and I will end up with just another SA1, far from 100% original. If I'm going to spend time and money on it anyway, could it be turned into another conversion project?

I was rather impressed by this charabanc at the GDSF and thought it could be the basis of an SA1 conversion project:


After all, the Mamod steam bus is based on the same chassis and engine! The characteristic Stanley bonnet could hide almost any boiler but, if I'm going to replace it anyway, a vertical might be more appropriate. I have a couple of possible candidates:



The nice brass one is, I think, a Stevens (?) Model Dockyard. It's slightly larger but it would be a shame to hide it under a bonnet and even more shame to cut it about. The copper one is a Midwest one from an unbuilt model VI and can be modified to spec during assembly.

Either way, there's not going to be much room for a burner so I thought a small gas fired one might be suitable. There would be plenty of room under the seats for the gas tank.

I've not done any work on this yet, and not made any firm decisions. What are your collective thoughts?

Room for the burner will definitely be tight, which is why I'm thinking of a gas burner. It's not quite as bad as it looks. Both boilers are about 2.5" tall. What you can see of the Stevens boiler includes the firebox, which can be cut off. The chimney would be shortened so that it just poked through the bonnet. The Midwest boiler is about the same height but smaller diameter.

BTW, I've just noticed a sticky label stuck to the box of the Midwest engine kit, which says:

WARNING: This product contains a chemical known to the state of California to cause cancer & birth defects or other reproductive harm.


The only possible thing I can think this might refer to is the fibreglass insulation. :-|

"Dampfzauberer" wrote:

Great idea, but please don't take the old model dockyard boiler!
That would be a pitty to cut that one up, maybe you'll find the right engine for it one day?

That's not very likely but it would be great if it happened. I have to admit, I would feel guilty cutting up such a nice boiler and I might be suicidal if I ever did find an engine to go with it! The Midwast boiler is smaller and would generate less steam but it's probably the more responsible way to go.

If somebody has an alternative similar boiler about 2.5" tall and the same diameter, I would be interested.

"Stoker" wrote:

If there is solder and flux in your kit then it could be either of those. Solder does contain lead, which gets alot of bad press, but is only an issue if mishandled. However my kit doesn't contain either solder nor flux, so I suspect it is the copper they are referring to. I wonder how much copper you would have to eat, before it became a problem?

No solder or flux in the box. As far as I know, copper is not considered to be carcinogenic. If it is, then most of the worlds civilised population is at risk from their water supply!

Several people seem to be looking forward to this. Hmmm - I'd better start thinking about it seriously, then. :-)

I think I'll go for the Midwest boiler, unless I can find another about the size of the Stevens one. I'll also need a few more seats. I'll have to think about how I'm going to mount the boiler and how the Stanley style bonnet will be formed. Any ideas will be appreciated, as will any offers of suitable parts (at a reasonable price, of course).

Well, that's one decision made for sure - I've just sold the Stevens boiler to MrMamod to go with his Stevens engine. That should be worth seeing when they're together :-)

I've started buying some bits and pieces for this project. I've got some aluminium sheet and some vinyl covering for the extra seats (I've decided that the original Mamod ones are too expensive and too large anyway for 4 rows). I found an old tin can with a lid exactly the right shape for the top of the bonnet - that saves a lot of complicated folding.

I've also bought a small ceramic gas burner, which brings me to the next question - is there a recommended minimum distance between the top of the burner and the bottom of the boiler?

Trying to work out the positioning of boiler and burner on the chassis:


Blue = boiler and firebox
Red = burner
Green = chassis
Violet = engine bracket, reversing lever, crank
Brown = wheels and steering

Dotted line near the bottom is the ground clearance level and is about the same as in the SA1.

"ozsteamdemon" wrote:

A fun project and good luck with it :-)

is the boiler at the front or the back ?

Are you going to give it a name ? :-)

The boiler is at the front and it's a Stanley Charabanc. See the photo in the first post of this thread.

"xlchainsaw" wrote:

are your measurements in ft and inch or decimal inch or mm??? :-)

They are decimal inches. It's based on a Mamod SA1 chassis to give you an idea of scale.

I thought I'd better update this thread, even though I haven't realy got very far. I've built the Midwest boiler, with a few mods, and fitted a bracket to support it and the Bix burner. The chimney is still it's original height at the moment but I will eventually cut it down so that it just pokes through a hole in the bonnet. I know the Stanley never had that but I don't have much choice.



"L E Jay" wrote:

Looks great. They rust easily. This is going to be fantastic.

I'm ignoring every comment about seats. I would end up making some carbon fibre buckets. Not suitable for a church on wheels. But I have plenty of them missing one.

Well a high standard is expected here. Any thoughts on the gear ratios. I may have some interesting project pics next week myself. My limo should be finished. Just made the decals. 50 resprays.

The chassis parts are still as I got them. The previous owner had started a restoration but gave up at an early stage. When I've got all parts made and ready for final assembly, I'll do a complete strip, de-rust and re-spray.

I'm still undecided on how to make the seats. I'll probably make them with aluminium sheet and cover with vinyl (I have both to hand). At least one will have to be removable to gain access to the gas bottle, which will be underneath.

As for gear ratios, I'll start off with the standard SA1 arrangement and see how it runs (or not). I'll then modify up or down if required. It'll be somewhat heavier so I guess I might have to gear down further. If the weight is too much I might have to use a chain for the final drive. It would be nice to fit a differential to the rear axle but that's likely to be expensive.

Just a quick update. I've mounted the boiler, burner and gas tank and sorted most of the plumbing (though it's not soldered yet so I can't test it).



I've found a small tin canister with a lid that's just the right size and the right shape to form the top front edge of the distinctive Stanley style bonnet :-) The rest of it can be bent from aluminium sheet simply enough.


"Sandman" wrote:

It's getting there Roly.

Slowly, yes. I'm dreading making the seats. I'm still not sure how I'm going to do those.

"mrmamod" wrote:

Roly this is looking great and as for the seat weren't they slatted wooden seats on a metal frame.

I think they varied a lot. The example I've got photos of (see the start of this thread) has rather luxurious leather covered seats! I have some aluminium sheet and some vinyl covering which I plan on utilising. I'm just not quite sure how!

"mrmamod" wrote:

Thanks for the link to your photos and i see what you mean as regards the seat those in the photo are the comfy sort - I like the tin lid you have got on top of the boiler as you going to cut this just in half and make the bonnet as per the photo you have as this would give the bonnet a nice rounded look and you have a line to follow to make the rest.

To maintain the rigidity, I might just leave it whole and build the rest of the bonnet over and around it. It depends on how well I can hide the joins. The rear half of the lid would be hidden except when the bonnet is hinged up (it will be hinged just like the original).

"Ben W" wrote:

This looks great! Can't wait to see some posted 1/4 miles times and dyno runs in it.

You will be fitting 4-point harnesses, I trust!?

:-) But seriously, excellent project!

:-) I don't think this will be breaking any speed records :-)

"gremlin" wrote:

I like the look of this one, the boiler is a nice size, be interesting to see how it turns out. With regard to the seats, Balsa wood is easy to shape with some covering over the top. Or depending how you feel about sculpting, Fimo could be rolled out and will stick to a formed metal seat and comes self coloured.

Balsa is a good idea. I have some left over from my Midwest boat but I think it's only thin strips. I'll have to try to find a source of suitably sized blocks.

I've fixed the bulkhead into position ...


... and made up the bonnet.


This is what it looks like inside to show the construction ...


... and this is (roughly) what it will look like in situ.


It's not fixed yet. It will eventually be hinged at the top corner as in the original, but I haven't found a suitable pair of miniature hinges yet.

To aid dismantling in future, I've fitted an in-line coupling in the steam pipe.


"made-in-england" wrote:

Looking really good! That Bonnet looks the mutz nutz!

A question, will the wheels look a little small when its all together with the hight of the new bonnet?

I never really thought of that, and you might be right. I'll wait to see what it looks like when it's nearer completion.

"boxman" wrote:

That bonnet look brilliant You dont fancy a little panel bashing on the back end of my pickup do you! :-)

:-) If you don't mind it being stuck together with Araldite - yeh.

Actually, it was a bit more tricky than I expected. The top bit was no problem but when it came to sticking the wrap-around bit on, I had to have two goes before I got it straight. I'm hoping the joins will be less obvious when painted.

"Dean W" wrote:

Really some fine metal work on the bonnet, Roly. Quite impressive.
Is Araldite the same as two part epoxy? Will it be affected by the
heat of the boiler?

I'm working on a firebox project, and would be interested in your thoughts
about epoxy as a filler for joints in the presence of quite a bit of heat.

Yes, Araldite is epoxy and it should be ok up to steam temperature. It would be no good anywhere near flame but the glued areas are all on top so I'm hoping it will be ok. If it does come apart then I'll have to screw it or rivet it together. That wouldn't look as good, though.

"xlchainsaw" wrote:

"Dean W" wrote:

Really some fine metal work on the bonnet, Roly. Quite impressive.
Is Araldite the same as two part epoxy? Will it be affected by the
heat of the boiler?

I'm working on a firebox project, and would be interested in your thoughts
about epoxy as a filler for joints in the presence of quite a bit of heat.

araldite is a two part expoxy and isnt any good around heat sources. :-) i think rolys is for show and when steaming its removed???? :-)

No, it won't be removable, just hinged.

"Graham-Jilly" wrote:

hope you bring this to STL Roly would love to view it finished or not :-)

Certainly will do :-)

"Dampfzauberer" wrote:

Looking good!

As for the hinges:
Try and search the supermarket or other stores that sell hobby stuff, for those small wooden boxes.
They are made of very light wood, and they are held together with a pair of mini hinges.
(often made of brass)
This might be the right thing for you, they measure about 20 x 10mm when open.

I've found a supplier of miniature hinges about that size, at Hobbies. They come in packs of 4 so I'll have a couple to spare.

I've just received the hinges I ordered. I didn't quite realise just how small they were! There are 4 hinges in this little bag, along with 16 tiny wood screws!!! I have some 12 BA screws to use instead but I'll have to dig out my clockmaker's tools and jeweller's lupe! 8)


"alan2525" wrote:

Where did you get those tiny hinges Roly?


Fitted the hinges and they are just right:


Also, a design change; partly for looks but mainly because the front wheels were fouling the wider bonnet when steering. I've cut the depth of the bonnet to about half way and provided lower panels fixed to the chassis. The fixed panels look a bit untidy at the moment and I might re-do them:




Oh, and the sharp eyed amongst you may have spotted the nice new brass screw-on wheel hubs :-)

"mogogear" wrote:

Roly your car is looking so many others have said -the bonnet is perfect!!

an idea for the seats may be found over in Giovanni's Elliot Bay build -- he did his seats in grained leather. It was trimmed and glued in place.

It is a ways down but perhaps it is an idea to help

Thanks Mo. Giovanni's seats are nice and I plan on doing something like that but using vinyl (cheaper than leather!). The problem is how to make the seats themselves, not how to cover them. I think balsa is the way to go. I've bought some balsa blocks but they are the wrong size. I'll have to cut them down. I also need to build up and extend the bodywork to take 4 rows of seats. This I'll do with aluminium sheet (if I've got enough left by then).

I've now extended the bodywork backwards to accomodate the four rows of seats. This is just folded aluminium sheet.



I've made up some seats using balsa wood blocks. These will be finished by rounding the corners and edges with sandpaper and covering with vinyl.




The rear three rows will be mounted on balsa blocks and probably glued in position, although I might decide to use screws (balsa is not the best material to screw into). The front seat will need more thought. It must fit on/around the top of the gas tank and pipework. It must be removable for filling purposes.

This is what I've devised for mounting the front seat so that it lifts off to refill the gas:




It's the same size as the balsa blocks supporting the other three seats and will be painted black, likewise.

"jakesm" wrote:


what we do to encourage you?

want to see more!!!!


There isn't much to show at the moment. I've started covering the one of the seats but it's a slow tricky operation. I'll put up a photo of the first one when it's done.

This is the current status:


... and here's the first seat covered ...


It's not perfect but good enough. This is why I did one of the middle seats first so it won't be so visible. Hopefully I'll get better with practice.

"mogogear" wrote:

Looks good Roly...can you cut the edges at a bevel ? Miter the cuts so they will fit together cleanly when glued in place?

Not criticizing ..I promise

       l l
       l l

If that makes sense at all.

Yes, it makes perfect sense. The vinyl sheet is very stretchy and is difficult enough to cut in any direction. To get it exactly the right size, I start off somewhat larger than necessary and then trim it with a sharp knife after the glue has set. Cutting it at an angle would not be as easy as it sounds. What i thought of doing is to find a suitably coloured marker pen to run around the edges so that they won't show up so obviously.

I've done two so far and I've started on the third. I'll have a think about how I could cut a bevel on the last one.

"MrDuck" wrote:

So, where do I get a ticket for the inaugurational ride?

Ahh! That won't be for a while yet.

"fruitfly" wrote:

Hi Roly,
Rather then using a marker pen on the edges, have you thought about using shoe polish?
Or even a contrasting coloured marker, to simulate the piping?
Just a couple of quick ideas!

The contrasting colour is a good idea, thanks. I have plenty of black markers around.

I don't think shoe polish would work. It's vinyl, not leather, so it's non-absorbant.

"fruitfly" wrote:

Hi Roly,
Have you considered a paint marker?
If you go to a major office supply store, there's a few colours to choose from.
These things are great- when I was into stationary engines, I would use these to pick out the casting numbers etc, and for adding extra pinstriping.
Just a thought.

I've never come across those before. They sound like a good idea. Something more to investigate!

The completed seats, stuck in place and with the arm rests stuck on with double sided sticky tape for the photos.



I steamed it up for the first time yesterday and it worked well. (Sorry, I didn't video it because I wanted to watch everything carefully the first time, just in case!) While assembling the works for the first steaming, I realised that I didn't have a piston, or had lost it. I borrowed one from a MEC1 but I need to get a replacement.

I've just put it all together (so far) to get an idea of overall proportions. Here's where I want some input. Should I move the rear wheels back a bit, which would entail extending the main chassis members and modifying the mudguards (not fitted in these photos)?




Still to do:

Reposition rear wheels?
Modify mudguards?
Steering (boiler is in the way!)
Fit lamps
Road trial
Modify gearing if necessary after road trial?
Fit water gauge to boiler?
Tidy up metalwork at front end
Strip, derust and paint

... oh, and I'm thinking about a folding canopy in vinyl.

"mrmamod" wrote:

Looking good Roly BUT you forgot something in your list the M.O.T

Ah! Forgot about that. Might have difficulty finding an MOT garage that can do steam PSVs. There's probably a dozen rules it doesn't comply with :-)

Opinion seems to be split over the rear wheels so I think I'll leave them where they are, being the easiest option :-)

"Mamodman123" wrote:

Are you going to fit some mud guards Roly?

Yes. I have the original SA1 mudguards and running boards. For appearances, I will probably reshape them and extend them back towards the rear. To be honest, I haven't really thought about the final details yet.

Some of you may have seen this project mentioned on my STWWW table, including a video of it running not too well and a photo of the chain drive that I've fitted on the rear axle.

The main problem in the end was that the rear spring belt was slipping badly. The chain drive cured this once and for all. Unfortunately, because the smallest Meccano chain sprocket is a lot bigger than the old pulley, it made the rear wheels go too fast with not enough torque. I therefore had to increase the speed reduction in the first (belt) stage by fitting a larger pulley on the intermediate shaft. I started looking in my Meccano box for a suitable pulley when I realised I already had one - taken from the rear axle. I had to replace the intermediate shaft itself because the old pulley didn't want to come off (probably a force fit). Also, as it turned out, it would have been too short with the extra large pulley and sprocket fitted. Again, I already had one because I'd already replaced the rear shaft at the start of the project. I had to move a couple of fixing screws to stop them fouling the new works. That's where the spare holes came from.



With these changes, it now runs well and at a reasonable speed.

The next priority is to fit a water gauge to the boiler. This is essential because the water runs out long before the gas does. I bought a traditional gauge glass on Ebay. (BTW, I must put in a good word about the seller maccmodels. The glass tube got missed out of the package but he sorted it verry quickly.) The gauge is obviously designed for a larger boiler than mine so I'll have to cut the glass tube down to size - a minor problem. There's plenty of room under the bonnet behind the boiler. I'll have to cut away some of the outer cladding and move the top band down out of the way but, again, a minor problem.



I've fitted the water gauge glass and, to my great relief and surprise, it all went together first time with no major problems - and it works!

rew10j30-311_800.JPG rew10j30-312_800.JPG

The only real problem was that the blow-down valve is totally inaccessible. I had to cut a hole in the metalwork and make a simple tool to operate it.



While I was at the work bench and things going (generally) to plan, I went on to add a bracket on the rear for the spare wheel.


Talking of wheels, the next step to tackle is the steering. I've still no real idea how I'm going to do that. The boiler is in the way of replacing the old steering column as it was. As far as I can see, I have two alternatives: 1 - the simple one of not bothering, or 2 - to make up some sort of linkage to couple the steering wheel to the front wheels. It might even be simpler to employ some sort of flexible link like a Bowden cable. (Anybody got a spare Wilesco steering cable? :-) )

"steamyjim" wrote:

Looks excellent! Why not try could bring the control to a servo at the rear?

That's something that has crossed my mind. I'd still have to provide some linkage to the servo near the rear but it might not be too difficult. It could be done with a bell crank and push rod. It would still be best to have manual control as well, though.

"Meths" wrote:

It's looking fantastic Roly!

Regarding steering - and this is just a thought without looking at my SA1 to see if it's practical - but could you replicate the engine's reversing lever on the other side, and extend it through the floor. You could then link the bottom extension of this to the Ackerman steering through a rod and L-shaped bracket and then essentially steer it in exactly the same way some early cars did.

It should then, if you wanted, be easy to put a dummy steering wheel on.

This sounds a bit complicated to me, and a bit pointless. If I'm going to have linkage then it might as well be connected to the steering wheel. There's plenty of room in front of the bulkhead, it's just that the boiler is in the way of the direct line from the steering wheel position to the Ackerman mechanism. There is some space at the side of the boiler for a rod or Bowman cable but it's too far to the side for a direct connection.

Here's a photo to make what I'm saying a bit clearer:


"Bugsy" wrote:

Would it look odd if you simply moved the steering column a little to the right and drilled a new hole for it in the front connecting bar?

It would look very odd. It would be right on the edge of the dashboard!

Thanks, folks, for allthese sugestions. I'm storing them all in my head for further consideration.

"Bugsy" wrote:
Here is another idea.

Drill a hole right through the boiler in the right place and solder in a suitable piece of copper or brass pipe.
Position the steering column through the pipe

"IndianaRog" wrote:

As radical as that sounds...I think it's a good idea. Many vertical style engines used a soldered tube thru boiler to run the fine if large enough ID to avoid binding.

Really thinking outside the dots there Phil!!!!!!!!


As I said - thanks, folks, for all these suggestions. I'm storing them all in my head for further consideration.

Well, after a great deal of trial and error; plan A turned into plan B, which turned into plan C and ...

... I eventually managed to rig up a working steering linkage. It's a bit sloppy but it works :D (there isn't a "phew" emoticon!)

"Bugsy" wrote:

That works fine.
But what is holding the steering column in position?

A brass bit from a chocolate block connector and a scratch made bracket:


"Stilldrillin" wrote:

That's a right whirligig Roly! Blummin well done.....

I was hoping to see a hole through the boiler! :-)

Sorry to disapoint you :wink: That would have been the last resort - plan Z :-)

I've been working on some trimmings:


Extended and fitted the running boards / mud guards. These extensions are stainless steel rather than aluminium - for strength:


Made a pair of brackets for the head lamps, because they were in the way of the bonnet in their original position:


Added a pair of Meccano gears to give some more control in the steering (it was about 1/10 turn lock to lock!)


It's almost getting to the stage where I'll have to dismantle it all to be stripped and painted. The conopy can wait till later but I think I must find a windscreen from somewhere.

"kno3" wrote:

Roly, wouldn't a one piece mud guard look better on the rear wheels?

Probably, yes.

The current arrangement is simply an extension to the original SA1 mud guards. I'm hoping that paint will hide the join. Aralditing the join should help. If not, I might cut the originals short, but that will loose the existing texture.

"BK" wrote:

Looking good Roly, I like the steering solution.
Mudguard extensions look good, but I'd use a bit of epoxy on the join and sand it down (or up) then paint.Top job mate.

Thanks Bernie. That's more or less what I plan to do. There are sharp cut edges that need to be removed anyway (as there are elsewhere).

The steering gear looks rough but it's hidden under the bonnet. Meccano gears are a bit "chunky" for this sort of application. I might do something to tidy it up a bit and make it less obtrusive.

I got a windscreen - thanks to Mel for supplying that.

I took a set of photos in complete but unfinished condition, if that makes sense. Complete in that all the parts are made / acquired and assembled (albeit stuck with sticky tape in some cases) - as far as I intend to go at the moment. (I might add some more touches later.) What is now left to do is completely dismantle it (that will be soul-breaking), remove rough edges and surfaces, derust and paint everything. Then reassemble, glueing and/or riveting some parts and adjusting alignment in a lot of places. Hopefully, it'll still work when all that's done! :lol:









"mrmamod:561724" wrote:

Roly that IS looking one nice piece of kit and well done for this thread it has been a joy to watch the build - Any idea yet what colour you will be spraying it ????

I rather like the Burgundy colour of the original. The main problem with that is that the bonnet will probably have to be high temperature paint. The chances of finding suitable paint the right colour are pretty slim.

I could paint the whole thing with ordinary paint and hope the bonnet doesn't get too hot, or I could paint the whole thing in some other colour available in VHT paint, or I could paint the bonnet black or red and the rest Burgundy. I'll try the first option first and think again if it fails.

I've no idea how many hours I've put in to build it; but it took me less than an hour to dismantle it! :lol:


Just a couple of photos to show I'm sitting on my backside doing nothing:

Nitromorse doing it's job:

Araldite doing it's job:

I didn't take a photo of the rust remover doing it's job - there's nothing to see, really :-)

"nissan boy:569954" wrote:

so how is progress?

Not great at the moment. :-(

I'm painting parts, mainly, but it's not pleasant with the window open in this weather :roll: I've primered some parts and sprayed the bonnet with VHT red, which is baking in the oven as I type. I have a feeling it might be too bright a red, though, so I might risk redoing it in an ordinary car paint of a nicer colour.

Does anybody know if VHT is compatible with celulose car paint? I'm thinking if I paint over the VHT with car paint, it might be protected by the VHT.

"tom1:569992" wrote:

I dont know it VHT is the same as high temp paint? And is Celulose just a normal paint?

I painted my mamod roadster in red high temp paint but didn't come out in a very nice colour so i got some normal car finish paint and sprayed some over the high temp. I got lots of small cracks in the normal paint so i stripped the lot primed and resprayed. Best thing i think to do would be try a bit on something else to see what happens.

It's coming on well Roly :-)

Hope this helps,

"Atticman:570250" wrote:

Would you be able to insulate the bonnet pretty heftily with some ceramic based product Roly, then the heat wouldnt be an issue.

As the burners at the bottom of the boiler there would be less direct flame to metal contact?

"alan2525:570322" wrote:

If the paint is compatible it shouldn't pose a problem, and if not the solvent in the paint will probably make the VHT bubble off for easy removal!

I painted a boiler with a stove paint after meticulously stripping with nitromoors, and wet and dry. The little bits of residue paint n the inaccessible places caused the VHT and the old paint to bubble right off!

A short mild spell of a few days above 10c has enabled me to make a start on the painting. I don't like spray painting if the outside temperature is too cold because I need to have the windows open wide.






The temperature's dropped back down to 5c si I'll have to postpone operations again :cry:

"mrmamod:584932" wrote:

Nice spray job Roly all shiny and is that the final colour for the body.

The shiny red will be the final finish. The browny red is just primer. The grey is aluminium primer (I don't know if it makes much difference).

"jakesm:617253" wrote:


i have not been in for a while, what is going on with the charabanc?

I was wondering when somebody would ask :oops:

I've been painting. The weather has rarely been suitable for spraying until the last few days and I've been rather busy since then. However, I've managed to get most of the painting done in dribs and drabs and I'll be able to start reassembling soon. I only hope I can remember how it goes back together again :-)

This is what I started with...


...and this is what I have now:


This gives an idea of the extra parts I've made.

This project has been given low priority just lately. I hope to change that soon :-)

Beginning to look a bit more like a vehicle, now, instead of a breaker's yard!


Getting the tyres back on the wheels was more difficult than I expected. I had to soak the tyres in warm water for several minutes and it was still tough. I was affraid they would split but that didn't happen (whew!). Even so, I damaged the new paint on a couple of the wheels so I'll have to touch those up. I have some paint left but it's in an aerosol. Fortunately, I discovered the trick, long ago, of spraying for a few seconds into the cap. You collect enough liquid paint use on a small brush. :wink:

"MrMamod:623995" wrote:

Roly when i did my 6 wheel lorry build i put the tyres in boiling water being carefull when removing them and they are so flimsy/flexible and were very easy to slip onto the wheels then left to cool or drop them into COLD water.

Thanks; I'll have to remember that next time. I did put them in warm water but not boiling.


At long last - it's all back together again after painting. The flash has made the red look brighter than it actually is. Even so, it's not as dark as the colour indicated on the cap of the spray can, which I would have prefered. It's ok, though, and not worth redoing.

I made one minor addition while reassembling. I found a pair of nice side lights which are more suitable for mounting on the bulkhead and I mounted the old Mamod headlights in a more suitable position at the front.

There's one more addition I'd like to make but I don't know where I'm ging to find the parts. I'd like to add some grills or louvres in the bonnet, like on the Stanley original.